The sizzling sound of an iron pan and the aroma of freshly fried dough drew Ukrainian travel blogger Oleksii Lisianskyi to a small restaurant in Xi'an, Shaanxi province.

There, he discovered guotie — open-ended, pan-fried dumplings with crisp golden bottoms and juicy fillings. Yet what stayed with him was not only the taste, but also the story behind the dish.

"It looks similar to dumplings. The bottom is crispy, while the filling is flavorful," Lisianskyi said. "I would definitely recommend this to my friends."

The dumplings he enjoyed at Hairong Guotie are part of a family tradition dating back nearly eight decades.

Listed as an intangible cultural heritage item in Xi'an's Beilin district in 2022, the technique for making the signature guotie offers a glimpse into how an everyday dish can preserve neighborhood memories, sustain a family legacy and find new life among younger and international audiences.

Much of the appeal lies in the contrast of textures. The underside is crisp and golden, while the upper layer remains soft and tender. Inside, the filling is moist and flavorful.

The family's restaurants prepare all fillings fresh each day, with no premade mixes. Fillings include shrimps, mushrooms and leafy greens, as well as wild vegetables with egg.

The signature beef-and-yellow-chive guotie features freshly cut beef with an 80 percent to 20 percent ratio of lean meat to fat.

According to Xuan Jianjun, the current owner and operator of the Hairong Guotie, the yellow chives are sourced from a designated growing area in Ankang, Shaanxi province.

Each guotie weighs about 26 grams — approximately nine grams of dough and 17 grams of filling. Bone broth is used to scald part of the flour and season the filling, giving the dumpling a richer taste.

Its preparation reflects the traditional Chinese balance of water and fire. The guotie are first lightly fried in oil. Once the bases begin to color, a mixture of flour, starch and water is poured into the pan.

The pan is then covered so the dumplings can steam before more oil is added for a final crisping.

The family describes the ideal appearance as a "golden back and fish belly" — a golden side touching the pan and a soft, curved upper layer.

Unlike many southern-style pan-fried dumplings, the northern-style guotie made through the Xuan family's technique leaves both ends open. Each dumpling curves as it cooks, helping to lock in the juices, while the thick cast-iron pan distributes heat evenly.

The family tradition began in 1947, when Xuan Hairong, the grandfather of current owner Xuan Jianjun, and his wife, Wang Guilan, settled in Xi'an. With three earthen rooms and an iron pan, they began selling guotie and sweet fermented-rice soup to the locals.

They became known for generous fillings, carefully prepared dough and warm hospitality. When neighbors faced difficulties, the couple sometimes offered extra food without asking for payment.

After Xuan Hairong died in 1962, the passing down of the technique was interrupted. However, the craft remained alive in the family's memory.

Xuan Jianjun grew up alongside his grandmother, Wang, and was deeply influenced by her dedication to the craft. In 1989, he decided to revive the handmade technique and continue the family tradition.

Now 105, Wang still visits the restaurant when her health allows, checking the food and reminding younger family members to preserve the original flavors. Her principle is simple: Run the restaurant honestly and make food with a clear conscience.

For Xuan Jianjun, preserving the craft does not mean freezing it in time. The family has introduced crayfish guotie and explored seasonal fillings inspired by the traditional Chinese practice of eating according to the 24 solar terms.

Xuan Jianjun said the family now runs 12 franchised restaurants and eight directly managed locations in Xi'an and neighboring areas.

"We hope to first establish a firm foothold in Xi'an and then expand across China. We also hope to build a century-old family business and pass the craft down from one generation to the next," he said.

From a neighborhood stall to a growing restaurant network, the business has changed in scale, but its values endure: fresh ingredients, handmade preparation, honest service and respect for the traditional flavor.

In the rising steam of an iron pan, the flavor of Xi'an continues to travel far and wide.